Last year, my mom came out during my two week winter break. Then, we walked the lands of the ancient pharaohs, cruised the Nile, and shared some kisses with the Sphinx. This spring break, we continued with our adventures, picking up where we left off with a trip to Jordan.
My mom came in on Wednesday afternoon. She spent a few days shadowing me as I finished up my last few days of teaching before break, meeting my basketball team and community advising group. On Friday after school, we took off for Jordan. We arrived there late at night and by the time we got our luggage, visas, and through the passport check, it was well past midnight. We met our driver and were taken to our hotel in Amman. Jordan is a relatively small country of 6 million, one third of them living in the city of Amman. Neighbors on all sides of them have gotten rich from oil, but Jordan has none. Therefore, Jordan has had to look elsewhere for wealth. What they have learned to value is education. For such a small country, Jordan has an incredible amount of higher education institutions. Many Middle Eastern students come here for their education. According the UNICEF, the literacy rate for both men and women aged 16-24 is 99%, 83% of women and 80% of men attend secondary school, and the life expectancy is 73. Not exactly what most Americans would expect.
Saturday, March 31 was our first full day in Jordan. We took off for the ancient city of Petra, recognized by most for its part in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. Petra was the ancient capital of the Nebataeans, established about 300 BC. The city's site was chosen due to its unique geography. To enter the city, we had to walk through a long siq, a narrow, deep split in the rock caused by tectonic place movement (since it's caused by this and not water, it is not considered a canyon). Since there was only one narrow way to enter the city, the city was very secure. Additionally, Petra was located on major trade routes. Natives therefore became expert tradesmen. The sides of the siq wall held pipes and open water troughs for human and animal water sources. Dams were built to control flash floods. After walking through the long siq (carefully, due to the carriages with tourists tearing down the narrow passage), we suddenly came to the most well-known sight of Petra, the Treasury. The siq opened up and this magnificent rock structure stood in front of us. The Treasury is named due to the fact that many thought there were treasures held here. Unfortunately, the only treasure to be found here is the body of a long deceased king. Past the Treasury, the landscape opened up and the city of Petra came into view. More royal tombs similar to the Treasury, stood like entries to the rocks they were carved into. A great theater, Byzantine church (in 106 AD, Romans took over after changed trade routes had weakened the Nebataeans), and temples were scattered around the desert landscape. We explored the whole day, then tiredly made our way back to our hotel for an evening stay at Petra.
Sunday, April 1we woke in Petra to another beautiful day in the desert. We left Petra and headed to Wadi Rum, made famous by Lawrence of Arabia, who led a group of Arabs across the hostile landscape to battle the Ottomans in World War I. The desert was beautiful. Four different sands colored the terrain. We traveled around in a jeep with an open back, snapping photos. We saw ancient inscriptions on the rock walls that served as guides to travelers, Lawrence's cave house that he returned to after the war, and a Bedouin tent for tea.
After Wadi Rum, we continued to head south to the city of Aqaba (where Lawrence was headed to fight the Ottomans) located on the Red Sea. From Aqaba, we could see Egypt and Israel across the sea. A little further down the road from us was the Saudi border. Unfortunately my mom and I forgot our burqas so we had to turn back towards Jordan and head to the Dead Sea.
To get to the Dead Sea, we had to descend (and remember we left the Red Sea so were at sea level) 423 meters to go to the lowest point on Earth. We passed by Lott's wife, the pillar of salt (although she was really made up of sandstone) looking out to the Dead Sea and stopped at the sea for a dip. The water temperature felt cool and refreshing. We decided to bypass the rolling ourselves in black "Dead Sea Mud" as they called it, and just go for the water. Lying in it was amazing. It was impossible not to float. If you were to rub your hands together, they felt so amazingly silky and soft. Unfortunately, it doesn't feel the same way if you get it in your eyes. Just a little bit dripped into my eye and the high salt content of the water made it burn and water like mad. Luckily a man sitting next to us had some fresh water to flush it out. After showering the Dead Sea minerals off our body, we did as any good tourist does and went to the gift shop and loaded up on more Dead Sea Minerals. We bought mud, lotions, and soaps, all containing minerals from the water.
The next morning, we woke up in our Amman hotel and headed for the first time north to the ancient city of Jerash. Before leaving though, we went on a quick tour of our city. Amman has a population of 2 million, about one third of the total Jordanian population. Amman as a city did not seem all that impressive. Although there is poverty, the level did not seem as high as the poverty in Egypt. What I remember looking down from the highest point is hundreds of cream colored apartments that looked like cardboard boxes dotting the seven hills of the city.
Amman boasts remains of a Neolithic settlement from 8500 BC. We went to the city's citadel, the longest continuously inhabited part of the city. It was originally established around 1800 BC. In the Bible, this settlement was referred to as Rabbath. Its name later was changed to Philadelphia when the Egyptian king Phildelphus took reign in the first century BC. Around 30 BC, it changed hands again to the Romans, who built up the citadel and a theater that still stands. After walking around the citadel, we headed to Jerash.
Although Jerash was first settled in Neolithic times, it did not become a town until Alexander the Great took it under his control in 333 BC. Most of what we see today came from the Romans who later assumed control in 64 BC. In the third century AD, the city reached its peak with a population of 15,000-20,000 occupants. The city declined after a devastating earthquake in 747. Today, Jerash is considered one of the most magnificently preserved Roman cities of the Middle East.
We had the honor of having a guide to show us around that had also worked on the excavation of the marvelous ruins. We walked by hundreds of Jordanian schoolgirls eager to practice their English with us, past animals grazing in the ruins, down the streets that were so well preserved you could easily picture yourself there over one thousand years ago. There were three theaters, temples, shops, a beautiful Roman Forum, Byzantine churches, a hippodrome. Pictures won't describe the whole picture, but will do a better job than I can describe. The city was massive, and we did our best weaving between the school children to see as much as we could.
That night, we went back and tried out a typical Jordanian meal. Overall, the food was nothing I'd rave about. We tried a lamb in cream sauce over rice and chicken leg over wheat. The venue was a popular Jordanian restaurant. The workers were very helpful and eager to please us, but unfortunately the food did not quite hit the spot.
We woke up the next morning for our last day of adventure in Jordan. The next morning, we were leaving early for Istanbul. We headed again south (same direction as Petra and the Dead Sea) for Madaba where the famous map mosaic lies. Before Madaba, though, we stopped at King's Academy, a private high school much like the one I work at. Joe had visited this school prior to its opening and was curious as to what had become of it.
After touring the campus, we headed to Madaba. We stopped at the Church of Saint George. In 1884, when building this church, workers came across remnants of an old Byzantine church. These were not just any remains. The 560 AD mosaic they uncovered was the oldest map of Palestine in existence and provides many historical insights into the area. We entered the Church of Saint George and looked at this mosaic, now lying on the new church's floor. We could see the Jordan River, Dead Sea, Jerusalem, and Egypt, all beautifully depicted with Greek captions.
Our next stop in Madaba was the Foundation of Queen Noor, where we saw modern-day mosaic workers keeping the art alive. We shopped, then headed out to Mount Nebo to get a Moses-eye view of the Promised Land. It was from here that Moses saw the land for his people. We could see the Dead Sea and Jordan River, but Jericho, and the other cities of the Promised Land were not visible due to the haze.
After Mount Nebo, we headed down the mountain to the Jordan River to the site at which Jesus was baptized. In order to get there, we had to enter an area that was demilitarized fairly recently. Despite this, there were still plenty of armed guards. We were picked up by a tourist bus and dropped off a few hundred meters from the Jordan River. On the ridge behind us, churches from at least 4 different denominations stood looking out onto the holy spot. We hiked to the Jordan River where I realized why there were so many armed guards. The river was so small, a big jump and a little swim would get me to Israel. Israel had an armed guard on its side too. It didn't look like he was wanting any new visitors so I decided I would save my Israeli trip for another time. No swim for me. We went down to the river shores and dipped our feet into the water. Then hiked to the baptismal site. Due to a lessening of the water and changing of its route, the Jordan River doesn't actually go through the location of Jesus' baptism today. Despite this, they are quite certain that this is the actual spot of his baptism. We then headed back for one last night in Jordan before heading out the next morning.
Since getting back, my mom and I have enjoyed a few relaxing days in Istanbul. The Istanbul weather cooperated with us and we went to the Grand Bazaar and Rustem Pasha Mosque for quick visits, took the ferry to Buyukada, an island in the Aegean, eaten lots of fish, and walked around my neighborhood. We have spent many quiet evenings in with a glass of wine, my sweeping panoramic Bosporus view, and a movie. It has been a terrific adventure and I am very sad to think about the fact I have to put this project aside and start grading papers to get ready for the inevitable: work tomorrow.
My mom came in on Wednesday afternoon. She spent a few days shadowing me as I finished up my last few days of teaching before break, meeting my basketball team and community advising group. On Friday after school, we took off for Jordan. We arrived there late at night and by the time we got our luggage, visas, and through the passport check, it was well past midnight. We met our driver and were taken to our hotel in Amman. Jordan is a relatively small country of 6 million, one third of them living in the city of Amman. Neighbors on all sides of them have gotten rich from oil, but Jordan has none. Therefore, Jordan has had to look elsewhere for wealth. What they have learned to value is education. For such a small country, Jordan has an incredible amount of higher education institutions. Many Middle Eastern students come here for their education. According the UNICEF, the literacy rate for both men and women aged 16-24 is 99%, 83% of women and 80% of men attend secondary school, and the life expectancy is 73. Not exactly what most Americans would expect.
Saturday, March 31 was our first full day in Jordan. We took off for the ancient city of Petra, recognized by most for its part in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. Petra was the ancient capital of the Nebataeans, established about 300 BC. The city's site was chosen due to its unique geography. To enter the city, we had to walk through a long siq, a narrow, deep split in the rock caused by tectonic place movement (since it's caused by this and not water, it is not considered a canyon). Since there was only one narrow way to enter the city, the city was very secure. Additionally, Petra was located on major trade routes. Natives therefore became expert tradesmen. The sides of the siq wall held pipes and open water troughs for human and animal water sources. Dams were built to control flash floods. After walking through the long siq (carefully, due to the carriages with tourists tearing down the narrow passage), we suddenly came to the most well-known sight of Petra, the Treasury. The siq opened up and this magnificent rock structure stood in front of us. The Treasury is named due to the fact that many thought there were treasures held here. Unfortunately, the only treasure to be found here is the body of a long deceased king. Past the Treasury, the landscape opened up and the city of Petra came into view. More royal tombs similar to the Treasury, stood like entries to the rocks they were carved into. A great theater, Byzantine church (in 106 AD, Romans took over after changed trade routes had weakened the Nebataeans), and temples were scattered around the desert landscape. We explored the whole day, then tiredly made our way back to our hotel for an evening stay at Petra.
Sunday, April 1we woke in Petra to another beautiful day in the desert. We left Petra and headed to Wadi Rum, made famous by Lawrence of Arabia, who led a group of Arabs across the hostile landscape to battle the Ottomans in World War I. The desert was beautiful. Four different sands colored the terrain. We traveled around in a jeep with an open back, snapping photos. We saw ancient inscriptions on the rock walls that served as guides to travelers, Lawrence's cave house that he returned to after the war, and a Bedouin tent for tea.
After Wadi Rum, we continued to head south to the city of Aqaba (where Lawrence was headed to fight the Ottomans) located on the Red Sea. From Aqaba, we could see Egypt and Israel across the sea. A little further down the road from us was the Saudi border. Unfortunately my mom and I forgot our burqas so we had to turn back towards Jordan and head to the Dead Sea.
To get to the Dead Sea, we had to descend (and remember we left the Red Sea so were at sea level) 423 meters to go to the lowest point on Earth. We passed by Lott's wife, the pillar of salt (although she was really made up of sandstone) looking out to the Dead Sea and stopped at the sea for a dip. The water temperature felt cool and refreshing. We decided to bypass the rolling ourselves in black "Dead Sea Mud" as they called it, and just go for the water. Lying in it was amazing. It was impossible not to float. If you were to rub your hands together, they felt so amazingly silky and soft. Unfortunately, it doesn't feel the same way if you get it in your eyes. Just a little bit dripped into my eye and the high salt content of the water made it burn and water like mad. Luckily a man sitting next to us had some fresh water to flush it out. After showering the Dead Sea minerals off our body, we did as any good tourist does and went to the gift shop and loaded up on more Dead Sea Minerals. We bought mud, lotions, and soaps, all containing minerals from the water.
The next morning, we woke up in our Amman hotel and headed for the first time north to the ancient city of Jerash. Before leaving though, we went on a quick tour of our city. Amman has a population of 2 million, about one third of the total Jordanian population. Amman as a city did not seem all that impressive. Although there is poverty, the level did not seem as high as the poverty in Egypt. What I remember looking down from the highest point is hundreds of cream colored apartments that looked like cardboard boxes dotting the seven hills of the city.
Amman boasts remains of a Neolithic settlement from 8500 BC. We went to the city's citadel, the longest continuously inhabited part of the city. It was originally established around 1800 BC. In the Bible, this settlement was referred to as Rabbath. Its name later was changed to Philadelphia when the Egyptian king Phildelphus took reign in the first century BC. Around 30 BC, it changed hands again to the Romans, who built up the citadel and a theater that still stands. After walking around the citadel, we headed to Jerash.
Although Jerash was first settled in Neolithic times, it did not become a town until Alexander the Great took it under his control in 333 BC. Most of what we see today came from the Romans who later assumed control in 64 BC. In the third century AD, the city reached its peak with a population of 15,000-20,000 occupants. The city declined after a devastating earthquake in 747. Today, Jerash is considered one of the most magnificently preserved Roman cities of the Middle East.
We had the honor of having a guide to show us around that had also worked on the excavation of the marvelous ruins. We walked by hundreds of Jordanian schoolgirls eager to practice their English with us, past animals grazing in the ruins, down the streets that were so well preserved you could easily picture yourself there over one thousand years ago. There were three theaters, temples, shops, a beautiful Roman Forum, Byzantine churches, a hippodrome. Pictures won't describe the whole picture, but will do a better job than I can describe. The city was massive, and we did our best weaving between the school children to see as much as we could.
That night, we went back and tried out a typical Jordanian meal. Overall, the food was nothing I'd rave about. We tried a lamb in cream sauce over rice and chicken leg over wheat. The venue was a popular Jordanian restaurant. The workers were very helpful and eager to please us, but unfortunately the food did not quite hit the spot.
We woke up the next morning for our last day of adventure in Jordan. The next morning, we were leaving early for Istanbul. We headed again south (same direction as Petra and the Dead Sea) for Madaba where the famous map mosaic lies. Before Madaba, though, we stopped at King's Academy, a private high school much like the one I work at. Joe had visited this school prior to its opening and was curious as to what had become of it.
After touring the campus, we headed to Madaba. We stopped at the Church of Saint George. In 1884, when building this church, workers came across remnants of an old Byzantine church. These were not just any remains. The 560 AD mosaic they uncovered was the oldest map of Palestine in existence and provides many historical insights into the area. We entered the Church of Saint George and looked at this mosaic, now lying on the new church's floor. We could see the Jordan River, Dead Sea, Jerusalem, and Egypt, all beautifully depicted with Greek captions.
Our next stop in Madaba was the Foundation of Queen Noor, where we saw modern-day mosaic workers keeping the art alive. We shopped, then headed out to Mount Nebo to get a Moses-eye view of the Promised Land. It was from here that Moses saw the land for his people. We could see the Dead Sea and Jordan River, but Jericho, and the other cities of the Promised Land were not visible due to the haze.
After Mount Nebo, we headed down the mountain to the Jordan River to the site at which Jesus was baptized. In order to get there, we had to enter an area that was demilitarized fairly recently. Despite this, there were still plenty of armed guards. We were picked up by a tourist bus and dropped off a few hundred meters from the Jordan River. On the ridge behind us, churches from at least 4 different denominations stood looking out onto the holy spot. We hiked to the Jordan River where I realized why there were so many armed guards. The river was so small, a big jump and a little swim would get me to Israel. Israel had an armed guard on its side too. It didn't look like he was wanting any new visitors so I decided I would save my Israeli trip for another time. No swim for me. We went down to the river shores and dipped our feet into the water. Then hiked to the baptismal site. Due to a lessening of the water and changing of its route, the Jordan River doesn't actually go through the location of Jesus' baptism today. Despite this, they are quite certain that this is the actual spot of his baptism. We then headed back for one last night in Jordan before heading out the next morning.
Since getting back, my mom and I have enjoyed a few relaxing days in Istanbul. The Istanbul weather cooperated with us and we went to the Grand Bazaar and Rustem Pasha Mosque for quick visits, took the ferry to Buyukada, an island in the Aegean, eaten lots of fish, and walked around my neighborhood. We have spent many quiet evenings in with a glass of wine, my sweeping panoramic Bosporus view, and a movie. It has been a terrific adventure and I am very sad to think about the fact I have to put this project aside and start grading papers to get ready for the inevitable: work tomorrow.
